Mashed’Taro, Sweets, and Potatoes

Romy Dorotan, chef and owner of Cendrillon, a Philippine “fusion” restaurant in New York’s Soho, discovered that his customers are so fond of this homey dish that he can’t take it off the menu. Although just one of three starches, the taro comes through with its dulcet tones, albeit sotto voce. For variety and an Asian accent, substitute coconut milk for the butter and cream. Choose large taro with its drier texture and more pronounced flavor. It’s an appealing way to introduce taro—and to