Almost every book I’ve seen on Veracruzan food has at least one recipe from Inés Pavón Contreras of San Andrés Tuxtla. After spending a delightful afternoon talking about food with her, I can see why. This modest, dignified, gray-haired woman is one of the real presences in Tuxtlas-area cuisine. Although today she is partly retired except for her work as a catechism teacher, she has been greatly in demand as a baker and cook for nearly all her life.
This dish, Doña Inés’s own creati