I’ve always been fond of beetroot and have never understood why it is so often served with acidic dressings that mask its natural sweetness. Happily, inventive cooks have started to take an interest in it, serving it up in more flattering ways such as roasted or raw, as a pasta filling, a relish or even in a cake.

Always buy beetroot raw. Small, firm ones have the best flavour and if the leaves are still attached they should be green and fresh. Trim off the leafy tops and store in a cool, dark place. Before cooking, trim the stalks and wash well, being careful not to break the skin or the beetroot will bleed.