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By Ghillie Basan

Published 1995

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Shiny yellow lemons add a bright splash to every market and table spread. They can be served with practically every meze or vegetable dish, as the acidity cuts the heaviness of the olive oil. They are used in dressings and sauces, and squeezed in vast quantities to make a refreshing lemonade. Lemon juice is beaten with egg yolks to thicken thin soups and to make a tangy sauce for poached vegetables: beat the juice of half a lemon with two egg yolks over a low heat, add some of the poaching liquid until the dressing is of pouring consistency and serve hot. Before lemons arrived in Turkey from India, pomegranates served the same purpose, and still do in parts of Anatolia.