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Cooking

By James Peterson

Published 2007

  • About
Tarragon has an unmistakable flavor that the uninitiated describe as reminiscent of anise or licorice. But it soon acquires its own identity. It is one of the fines herbs that especially complements fish and chicken, and, along with shallots, flavors béarnaise sauce. It goes beautifully with tomatoes, much like basil but more intricate, and when cream is included, the aniselike tarragon notes are brought stunningly into relief.

Once hard to find, tarragon now appears in such large bunches that cooks are often stuck with more than they can use. Shoving the extras down the neck of a bottle of vinegar is one obvious solution. But you can also finely chop it with butter to make tarragon butter that keeps, tightly wrapped, for months in the freezer. The butter can be used to finish seafood sauces—especially the steaming liquid from shellfish—or it can be whisked into a deglazed pan used to sauté chicken. It is not bad on grilled corn either. Don’t try to dry tarragon, as it just turns stale. If your tarragon sprigs have thick stems, remove the leaves (see “How to Chop Herbs Efficiently,”).