Thyme may be second only to parsley in usefulness in the kitchen, though it is employed very differently. It can be used in three ways: slowly simmered in liquids so that its flavor is integrated with the flavors of the aromatic vegetables; chopped and added to sauces or other liquids just before serving for a sudden burst of direct flavor; or chopped and sprinkled on meats or seafood headed for the grill. Until recently, thyme was rarely available fresh, but now you can find it in the market year-round. You will seldom need a whole bunch, but since it dries easily without losing its character, this isn’t a problem. Use only what you need and tie the rest of the bunch on one end with string and hang it in a cool spot in the kitchen to dry. When it is thoroughly dried, rub the sprigs between your palms, letting the leaves sprinkle down over a steak or chop to season it. You may also want to slip fresh thyme sprigs down the neck of an olive oil bottle to give your salads a little herbal flavor. Several thyme varieties are available, including lemon thyme. Don’t substitute lemon thyme for regular thyme. Its aggressive lemon flavor is mildly reminiscent of furniture polish.