Artichoke

Appears in
Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

  • About

artichoke Cynara scolymus, a member of the thistle family. The cultivated globe artichoke is an improved form of the wild cardoon, C. cardunculus, which is a native of the Mediterranean region with a flower head intermediate in size and appearance between artichoke and common thistle.

The true artichoke may have evolved originally in N. Africa, although some have suggested Sicily as its birthplace. It is first mentioned as being brought from Naples to Florence in 1466.

The artichoke differs from the cardoon chiefly in the size of its flower head, which is greatly enlarged and fleshy. When this is an immature, small bud, the whole head is edible. Later, but while it is still a bud and before it opens, it assumes the form in which artichokes are generally consumed. At this stage the bracts (leaves resembling petals) have become tougher and only their fleshy bases are edible. The eater must be equipped with front teeth and patience. The bracts are picked off the cooked head one by one, a procedure which has given rise to the Italian phrase la politica del carciofo, meaning a policy of dealing with opponents one at a time. Then they are dipped in melted butter or vinaigrette dressing, and their bases are nibbled off. When they are all gone, a bristly structure, the inedible ‘choke’, is revealed. This is carefully cut off to reveal the ‘heart’ or ‘bottom’, the best part.