brains especially those of calf and lamb, have been accounted a delicacy, valued mainly for their creamy texture. Once soaked to free them of blood, and seized briefly in boiling water, they can be poached in a court bouillon, or braised, or made into fritters. Poached brains in brown butter with capers is a popular dish in France, and something similar is well liked in Italy. In India and Pakistan, where brains are called magaj or maghaz, they may be served fried, or in a spiced braise. In Sumatra they cook them with a spicy coconut sauce. Brains are enjoyed by Jews, often being eaten at New Year (when they stand in for the sheep’s head that was once a New Year fixture).