Cheese in Cookery

Appears in

Oxford Companion to Food

Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

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A subject which has attracted relatively little attention from cookery writers, perhaps because dishes in which cheese is a principal ingredient (e.g. fondue, cheesecake, welsh rabbit) are not numerous and cheese is more often eaten as a separate item or treated as a condiment or garnish (as in the use of parmesan on pasta, or melting cheese on top of something as a finish).

However, so far as France is concerned there is the strikingly rich study by Peter Graham (1988).

Elsewhere the choice of a particular cheese for cooking depends largely on national or regional tastes and on what people think appropriate for their own cuisines: thus feta for Greek and haloumi for Lebanese dishes, and so on. But choice is also determined by questions of texture and of behaviour when heated.