Appears in
Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

  • About

costmary Tanacetum balsamita, a perennial plant which originated in W. Asia but achieved a wide distribution in Europe and was taken to N. America by early settlers. It has a distinctive fragrance with hints of balsam or mint, and is sometimes called mint geranium; or alecost, because it was used in flavouring ale; or Bible leaf, because its large leaves were used as markers in church.

Its use in ale is of historical interest only, and the other roles of its pretty leaves, as in making a tea or being added to salads, have largely disappeared. Although Joy Larkcom (1984) lists it as a salad plant, she advises that the leaves should be used sparingly since their flavour is strong. Di Corato (1978), writing about the use of flavourings in Italy, echoes this advice but mentions too that the leaves are added to some rustic soups and that in Piedmont they are used as an ingredient of stuffings, e.g. for courgettes. He also records a use of the seeds for flavouring meats and sweets.