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Oxford Companion to Food

Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

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ears of some animals are good to eat, notably those of calf and pig. The cartilaginous meat has to be softened by lengthy cooking (sometimes wrapped in muslin bags), after which a crisp finish can be given to the ears by breadcrumbing and baking or grilling. grimod de la reynière gave them room on his menus for gourmands and a fine recipe for stuffed calf’s ears is given by Lucien Tendret. That they were fondly recalled by noble palates is clear from the Duke of Newcastle’s paean to his former cook Clouet’s ‘veal tendons, rabbit fillets, pigs’ and calves’ ears and several other dishes of that kind’ in 1758. Crisp ears have greater appeal than squeamish spirits might allow and have always been consumed in market dining rooms and urban tapas bars with enthusiasm. See also offal; tapas.