The Grape in Antiquity

Sugar syrups, made by boiling down must (fresh unfermented grape juice), were an important ingredient in Roman food. The difference between the various syrups is not fully known but, according to Pliny, sapa was more concentrated than defrutum, being boiled down to one-third of the original volume. Defrutum, used in savoury sauces, was reduced to only half the original volume. Another kind, passum, made from raisins and must or wine, was used as a sweetener. Grape syrup is still made in the Levant (where it is called dibs), and in Turkey and the Balkans, where it is pekmez as well as in France (raisiné) and Italy (vincotto).