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Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

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kidneys which come in pairs, have a distinctive shape (rounded on one side, concave on the other) which is reflected in terms like kidney bean and kidney potato. The kidneys in animals have the task of removing waste matter from the bloodstream and excreting it as urine. This role puts some people off eating them, especially in N. America; but in most parts of the world those of cattle, sheep, and pigs are eaten with relish, especially those of a calf or lamb.

Kidneys are encased in a thick coat of creamy fat; this is generally removed before sale (although a calf’s kidney can be cooked inside its fat). Kidneys should be bought and cooked very fresh. Those of adult animals, which will be less tender and often smell of urine, need careful preparation and relatively long cooking, e.g. braising; alternatively they can be chopped or sliced small and then stir-fried, as in China. Very small kidneys, e.g. of cocks or rabbits, cook rapidly and may be of use as garnish.

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