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Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

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morels edible fungi of the genus Morchella, considered a great delicacy in Europe and the USA, and also esteemed in China but poorly represented in the southern hemisphere (a deficiency which also applies to other good kinds of mushroom).

A morel is noticeably different from a normal mushroom; instead of a cap, it has an upright fruit body, distinctively pitted and resembling a honeycomb or sponge. This is hollow inside, as is the stem. Only a few morels exceed 10 cm (4") in height, but the same species may grow to a larger size in America than in Europe. Most morels are ochre or brown in colour with a paler stem; but the black morel is taller and darker. They all grow in the spring in both fields and woods, reputedly preferring sites where there is ash from a fire. It is said that peasant women in Germany had to be restrained during the 18th century from lighting heath fires in order to encourage morels to grow; their activity had resulted in forests being burned down. (A similar tale is told of Provence.)

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