The pork loin is one of the handiest cuts of meat on the planet, a handsome hunk of pure protein. However, its relative lack of fat presents a formidable challenge to barbecuers: how to grill it without having the meat dry out?
Here’s one strategy for grilling a pork loin: a technique called roll-cutting. The roast is cut and unrolled, almost the way you would unroll a roll of paper towels. Once it’s unrolled, I spread the meat with tapenade (a tangy olive paste), which bastes and flavors the meat from the inside. (You can stuff pork loin with anything, from chopped, sautéed mushrooms to sliced pepperoni and cheese.) Best of all, when you roll the roast back up, grill it, and cut it, for serving, you get slices with a handsome pin-wheel of white pork and dark tapenade—which is about one of the most visually stunning presentations ever to turn up at a barbecue.