Anchovies

When anchovies are used in Italian cooking, it is not for the anchovy taste, but for the added richness of flavor. Look for anchovies packed in glass jars, which are usually of better quality than those packed in tins and much easier to store in the refrigerator once opened. The best anchovies are whole anchovies packed in salt. Rinse away the salt, fillet them, and scrape off the skin. If placed in a container with enough olive oil to cover, they will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks. Anchovies packed in salt are worth the trouble if you are going to eat them as is; they are excellent on good bread with sweet butter. For cooking, oil-packed anchovies are perfectly adequate.