Samphire

British and imported, also known as marsh samphire or glasswort. Available from a few fishmongers in season, also from fish stalls in Norfolk and Suffolk. Rinse, trim off the wiry roots, boil or steam until tender, then serve hot with melted butter. The thin fleshy stems can also be successfully picked in brine. Rock samphire, or sea fennel, is more strongly aromatic and lends itself to being pickled in vinegar.