Samma

Also known as saury, this long, narrow fish has a blue-black back and shiny silver-white belly. It inhabits the seas around North America and Russia, coming down towards Japan in autumn, the best time to eat it since by then it has acquired its maximum fat content of 20 per cent.

In autumn, samma is best grilled (broiled) or pan-fried whole and eaten with a little grated daikon and shoyu to moderate its fishy smell. Dried samma is also very popular. In other seasons when it is less oily, fresh samma is used for making vinegared salads or sushi.