Dried mushrooms add a special flavour and texture to Asian dishes, and their rich, smoky aroma is much prized. They come in many varieties, either black or brown in colour. The very large ones with a lighter colour and a cracked surface are the best. These are usually also the most expensive, so use them with a light touch. Chinese dried mushrooms can be bought in boxes or plastic bags from Chinese and Asian grocers. Store them in an air-tight jar. To use Chinese dried mushrooms, soak them in a bowl of warm water for about 20 minutes or until they are soft and pliable. Squeeze out the excess water and cut off and discard the woody stems. Only the caps are used. The soaking water can be saved and used in soups and for cooking rice, to add extra flavour. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve to discard any sand or residue from the dried mushrooms.