Sweet, crisp, white waterchestnuts have been eaten in China for centuries as a snack, having first been boiled in their skins or peeled and simmered in rock sugar. In cooked dishes they are especially popular in the south, where they are sometimes grown between rice plants in paddies. (This is why they are often muddy.) They are not part of the chestnut family at all, but an edible root or bulb about the size of a walnut that forms at the base of the stem. Tinned waterchestnuts are a pale version of the fresh ones, because both the crispness and the flavour are lost in the canning process. Fresh waterchestnuts can sometimes be obtained from Chinese grocers or good supermarkets and will keep unpeeled in a paper bag in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. Look for a firm, hard texture. The skin should be tight and taut, not wrinkled. If they are mushy, they are too old; feel them all over for soft, rotten spots. If you peel waterchestnuts in advance, cover with cold water to prevent browning and store in the fridge. If you cannot find fresh waterchestnuts, tinned ones are sold in many supermarkets and Chinese grocers. Rinse well in cold water before using, and store any unused ones in the fridge in a jar of water. They will keep for several weeks if you change the water daily.