There’s no doubt that this knobbly root has an intimidating appearance, with a face that only a mother could love. For this reason, I’m unusually ruthless when I peel it, preferring long swathes of a sharp knife over a peeler, which struggles with the troughs and tendrils. Celeriac and celery share that same special flavour, which can be a revelation when paired with acidic and salty accents like capers or cheese.
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