Fat retains aroma better than water-based liquids. Whenever I’m making stocks or braising meats, I always try to save the fat. I prefer to amplify the specific flavor of a given meat by cooking it in its own fat. When cooked in animal fat, other foods, like onions, rice, or vegetables get more umami than their unanointed counterparts. For me, cooking with animal fats is an expression of my deep and abiding faith in science—that stem cells can clear my arteries faster than I can clog them.