Anchovies

Some grandmothers from southern Italy use anchovies in place of salt, for these tiny fish carry the flavor of the sea and can be scooped out of nearby waters or bought at the markets at almost no cost. They are used in two ways: as a replacement for salt and as fish in their own right. Buy them packed in salt, if you can, which allows them to taste as close as possible to fresh anchovies. When you are ready to use them, rinse them under cold running water to remove the salt clinging to their skins. Scrape away the skin with a knife, and slit them open down the back. Remove the spine and take care to feel for and remove any tiny remaining bones. If anchovies in salt are not available, find anchovies packed in olive oil inside glass jars that allow you to see how meaty and firm the contents are.