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Pulp: A Practical Guide to Cooking with Fruit

By Abra Berens

Published 2023

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Because of the tart fruit’s inherent tartness, I like to use a 50:50 ratio of fruit to sugar when making jam. The process is simple: Weigh the fruit, weigh the sugar, combine in a nonreactive pan over medium heat, and cook until the berries burst and the mixture cooks to about 220°F [105°C]. Because the fruits are generally high in pectin, I usually don’t measure the temperature of the jam; when it starts to wrinkle as you stir it, that is good. The wrinkle test is also a useful method.

The difference between jam and jelly is that jams contain the fruit pulp, jellies do not. I generally prefer the thicker texture of a jam, but also often strain currants and make jelly, as it is the most efficient way to remove all the little seeds and stems.

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