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Artichokes

Artichauts

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By Richard Olney

Published 1974

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Unless they are boiled whole to be served hot, tepid, or cold with a melted butter or a vinaigrette sauce, artichokes must be pared or “turned,” and every precaution should be taken to prevent their blackening: Contact with air discolors them and one should work as rapidly as habit permits, immediately rubbing them with lemon, thrusting them into acidulated water, or, preferably, coating them with olive oil, which, unlike lemon, will not alter their flavor. In addition, contact with carbon knives or with iron, steel, or aluminum cooking vessels not only blackens them but also lends them a harsh and disagreeable taste—they are best pared with sharp stainless steel knives and, if cooked in liquid, prepared in stainless steel or enameled ironware; for baking, use earthenware, enameled ironware, porcelain, or Pyrex and for sautéing use tinned copper or earthenware.

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