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The Potatoes and the Eggs

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By Anya von Bremzen

Published 2005

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To make a tortilla de patata you need moderately starchy potatoes. In Spain they mostly use Kennebecs, a sort of all-purpose variety, but I find that the trusted and true Yukon Golds work best in the States. Start by cutting the potatoes into thin, uniform slices, then fry them in plenty of olive oil. Infusing the potatoes with the olive oil is what gives the tortilla its inimitable flavor and fragrance. (While Spanish cooks consider using boiled potatoes a crime, sometimes I cheat by sautéing boiled slices in olive oil; the trick works for me.) Once fried, scrupulously drain the potatoes of any excess oil, mix them with the beaten eggs, and let them sit a little while so that they meld properly. Tortilla “specialists” insist that overbeating the eggs makes for a dry omelet. However, adding a little chicken broth to the eggs will make the tortilla super jugosa (juicy).

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