Eggs

What would happen to Spanish cuisine if the egg suddenly disappeared? The idea is too shocking to even consider, as there are times when the entire Spanish diet seems to revolve around yolks and whites. Fried in lots of olive oil until the edges are sizzled crisp but the yolk is still runny, huevos fritos are an essential meal, taken at any time of the day, either alone or on top of everything from sautéed baby squid to the season’s first fava beans or peas. For once (a midmorning snack), the huevo shows up as a tall, fluffy tortilla, the cakelike omelet without which most tapas bars would instantly go out of business. A fancy restaurant lunch could begin with a poached egg served over a potato velouté with a shaving of truffles. Bar suppers might feature a stirringly good revuelto—eggs gently scrambled with other ingredients (the word means flipped over).