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By Anya von Bremzen

Published 2005

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Here’s one of Spain’s better-known culinary exports: a rich blue cheese from the mountainous northern Asturias region. (It’s named after the town of Cabrales in the northern spur of the dramatic Picos de Europa mountain range.) This artisanally produced cheese is gutsy, complex, and almost wild—you can smell it from miles away—but often has a surprising sweetness in the finish. Unlike some other blues, which are injected with mold, Cabrales develops its own natural blue veining in the cold, humid caves where it matures for at least three months. Most commonly it is made with raw cow’s milk; sometimes goat’s and ewe’s milk are blended in. Treat Cabrales as you would any other blue cheese: crumbled on salads, smeared on toasted bread and sprinkled with walnuts, or paired with crisp apples for dessert (a typically Asturian combo). Once you’ve tried Cabrales, don’t miss the other outstanding blue cheese from Picos de Europa: Gamonedo and the milder Valdeón.

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