Josecho Marañon, Mari-Carmen Marañon, Manuel Marañon

When you tire of the fantasy-laden baquette slices that monopolise many of San Sebastián’s pintxos bars, Bar Txepetxa will spell salvation. At the heart of the pintxos from this 30-year-old family business are succulent, silvery anchovies, marinated according to a recipe by Josecho Marañon, prepared by his wife Mari-Carmen and served by their son Manuel, who insists: ‘Our success lies in the hands of my mother and the palate of my father.’

The small bar, plastered with photos and the odd gastronomic distinction (including a certificate of honour from San Sebastián’s Anchovy Brotherhood), is packed with drinkers enjoying these anchovies with 15 accompaniments. Each one, whether coconut, papaya, herrings’ eggs, liver or sea-urchins’ eggs, is laid between the fat silver sheaths with almost sushi-style precision. What regulars avoid is the platter of plastic models, so perfect that unsuspecting newcomers reach out to help themselves. Foiled! This highlights one of the reasons for Txepetxa’s popularity: the fact that every pintxo is freshly prepared. ‘I wanted to give people who came from the hills something from the sea,’ explains Josecho. ‘They need to taste the salt water as well as see it.’ Sadly, Josecho won’t reveal the recipe for his marinade, but these pintxos taste great with anchovies simply marinated in vinegar.