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Julián González Carasco, Juan Gutierrez Moreno

Bodegas Campos, Córdoba

Appears in
New Tapas: Today's Best Bar Food from Spain

By Fiona Dunlop

Published 2002

  • About

The sober frontage of Córdoba’s most successful restaurant spells out its attitude to food: quality and finesse. This is what attracts the town’s movers and shakers to dine here in studied calm. Between the rooms of this labyrinthine restaurant lie typically Córdoban patios - thick with perfumes and bright with geraniums - shady corridors lined with sherry barrels and tiled floors clicking with the heels of fame. More than anywhere else, Bodegas Campos encapsulates a journey into the heart of Andalucía. Since it opened in 1908, the restaurant has fed a stream of celebrities, from the Duchess of Alba to Joaquín Cortés, Paco Peña and Tony Blair. But despite its success, Bodegas Campos maintains a personal approach. Keeping appetites satisfied are four chefs and 20 cooks, headed by Julián González Carasco and Juan Gutierrez Moreno. For Juan, ‘Andalucian cuisine is the best - after French, which is the basis of everything. Our advantage lies in the quality of our products: the fresh fish and vegetables and the excellent oils and vinegars.’ The old mantra ‘quality, quality, quality’ is behind the exquisite tapas which, although simple to prepare, keep rulers, matadors and divas hooked.

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