A Snail’s Pace

Aristotle ate them. The Romans kept them and fed them herbs so they could feast on them year round. For us the taste of the snail is a little bit wild, a little bit bitter, and very, very addictive.

You can buy canned snails with a bag of clean shells attached—the best we’ve found are Ugma and He de France. Let them soak overnight in salted water with garlic and a bouquet garni. Then they can be sautéed in butter or olive oil and seasoned with herbs and garlic or baked with wine, fresh herbs, and butter. They are delicious stuffed in mushroom caps, covered with garlic butter, and broiled. Dredged in flour and seasoned with salt and pepper, they can be lightly sautéed in hot butter, then poured into beaten eggs to make a superb omelet.