Slices of smoked fish on a wide plate, accompanied with simply a dab of sauce or a lemon wedge, begin a meal most elegantly and—because we leave the smoking to someone else—effortlessly.
You should buy only as much smoked fish as you will use within three days. Refrigerate it when you bring it home from the market. About 30 minutes before serving the first course, take the smoked fish out of the refrigerator and arrange the slices on plates. The thin slices are easier to separate when cold, but the fish should warm to room temperature before serving so that the rich fats can soften and the flavor will be at its peak. Smoked whole fish should be skinned and boned when they are cold and then left to warm a little before serving. Smoked fish is very rich, but fortunately, a little goes a long way. Plan on two large slices of smoked fish or half of a small trout per person.