Ravioli has grown up from the day it was created in Liguria—in both size and sophistication. A single, large ravioli on a plate in a pool of sauce may be filled with lobster and tarragon, foie gras, black truffles, pine nuts and garlic, scallops, zucchini and thyme, chicken livers and mushrooms, salmon and shrimp, or pork and ginger. It’s a dramatic and warm opener.