Arracacha, Apio

Combine aspects of carrot, celeriac, and root parsley; add a dose of tropical tubers; and you have a hint of the range of tastes and textures of the rather elusive vegetable called arracacha or apio in U.S. markets. The tropical side expresses itself with subtle savors of plantain, yuca, and coconut, combined. Its texture and color, too, hint at plantain and yuca, with their special sweet stickiness, and plantain’s warm golden hue. (In its original area of distribution—the Andes from Venezuela to Bolivia—and in areas later cultivated, from the highlands to Central America, apio grows in brighter, deeper colors than what comes to us, which is mainly from Costa Rica.) Whatever the comparison, arracacha seems to measure up to and exceed expectations, even for those tasting it for the first time.