Wrapped Heart Mustard

Also dai gai choy and variations (Chinese), Swatow mustard or cabbage, heading mustard

This is the mustard that appears most often in Asian and Oriental markets—fortunately, for it is a versatile and luscious green, as I hope you’ll agree the four recipes illustrate. Various forms of the ribbed, vaguely romaine-like leaves swirl into long flattened heads. Usually, their ruffly tops have been chopped and one sees only a thick cluster of tightly furled pale leaf-bases edged with darker green (central and right heads in photo). Raw, the mustard is ferocious and is traditionally tamed by salt-pickling (as for kimchee). Cooked, its fleshy stalks and leaves turn bright jade, bittersweet, and juicy.