The oyster mushrooms on a menu or at a “specialty” grocery are not wild, no matter what the management may claim. Oyster mushrooms are farmed in more shapes, sizes, and colors than any others, because they are relatively easy to cultivate and they grow fast.

The most common oyster types are beige, soft, and mild. Others go in and out of fashion. The jonquil yellow and salmon or pastel pink oysters stand out when raw. Although less eye-catching, those with tan, brown, dove-gray, and slate caps are usually firmer and tastier. Whites are highly variable. Here’s the roll call.