When I first wrote about ramps in Food & Wine magazine in 1985, there were few to be found outside the forest. After all, urban areas are not home to most wild edibles—and not until recently have swanky restaurants and specialty food shops become showcases for foraged fare. Now, these native American leeks arrive in sophisticated city shops with the first garlicky breath of spring and appear on menus countrywide. Another edible has been restored to American tables by a national passion for novel foods and dining out.
