Butternut (Cucurbita moschata) is not a really big squash, but it doesn’t fit in with the smaller types. It’s all-purpose in the best sense of the word. Long popular (but not that long, for the original Butternut was introduced in 1944) for its ease of preparation and its abundance of melting, fruity flesh, it has stayed put in the fickle squash marketplace. Meaty and moderately sweet, it remains one of the most dependably good squashes available. It also packs in more dazzling golden-orange flesh per penny than any other variety. With its small cavity and easily pared thin skin, there is minimal waste.