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By Roger Phillips

Published 1986

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Eryngium maritimum I include this plant because of its historical importance but, in fact, it should not be dug up but protected. This perennial occurs around the coasts of the British Isles north to Shetland, excepting the east coast north of Flamborough Head. It is found on sandy and shingly shores and flowers from July to August.

The generic name is derived from the Greek eruggarein, to eructate, and refers to the plant’s supposed efficacy in flatulent disorders. The roots, which resemble chestnuts in taste, may be eaten boiled or roasted or used to make jelly, but they are more commonly candied as ‘eryngoes’ or the ‘kissing comfits’ alluded to by Falstaff. These sweeteners used to be obtainable in London shops.