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How to cook a perfect risotto has become a holy grail. We, the late twentieth-century British, true to form, embraced the dish and immediately set about debasing it. Depressing recipes tell you that it is too much trouble to make in the correct manner and insist on putting it in the oven – sheer heresy. Basically, and with typical Italian elegance, the dish is the only delicious way of preparing the rather odd breeds of their native rice.

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