Kaymak at Pando’s

Everything moves slowly at Pando’s—particularly Pando Şestakof, who is ninety. When a young businessman on his way to work sits at an outside table for a plate of kaymak and asks: ‘Could you rush the order?’ Pando replies: ‘Here it runs at my speed.’ Then he shuffles inside and painstakingly scoops the pure white treasure onto a steel plate and drizzles it with honey. He picks up a plastic basket containing half a loaf of bread, roughly chopped, and takes a full five minutes to shuffle back outside with the two plates.