Every culture has its children’s food — things that everybody eats but children dote on. In this country it might be hot dogs or pizza; in Szechwan it was bean curd (douju). Older people loved rich meat dishes, but children had less developed palates and adored the clear, fresh taste and soft texture of bean curd. Mrs. Chiang’s own favorite food when she was a child, the bean curd she ate was particularly delicious because it was homemade. The process was similar to that used in making cheese:
“My mother would grind fresh soybeans very fine, then combine them with water to make a kind of soybean “milk.” When she added a certain chemical (probably gypsum) to this, it coagulated instantly. Then she hung the mixture to drain in a cloth bag for several days; at the end there was a mild, creamy bean curd with a texture as smooth as silk. We ate it several times a week. For breakfast we might have pickled bean curd, pungent and highly spiced, with plain boiled rice. When there were no guests for dinner, we would just have vegetables and a stir-fried bean curd dish. For formal dinners bean curd would be part of a cold plate or in a soup. Along with eggs it was our main source of protein.”