Rustic Simplicity

The crude and simple things of the poor man’s fare were as a rule outside the pale of classic cuisine, but they influenced the course of Chinese gastronomy by introducing the element of rustic simplicity. It is often the case that the sophisticated develop definite tastes, which they can indulge in with some effort. Thus the rich man may genuinely like peasant food, but when served in his house it becomes pseudo-rustic. In order to make things more harmonious, he has simple food served on plain dishes, but guests will see that the dishes are carefully textured so as to appear coarse, and his simplicity will appear an affectation. On the other hand, a farmer’s wife may have gloriously expensive tastes which she can only appease by a single extravagance, which in its loneliness appears even ugly. It is better to act consistently with one’s means, than be accused of too humble or too expensive airs. But few people ever do it, except the very poor.