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Cooking of the South

Canton

Appears in
The Chinese Banquet Cookbook

By Eileen Yin-Fei Lo

Published 1985

  • About

Perhaps the most familiar of Chinese regional cuisines is Cantonese. Canton is the home of black beans, cured pork sausages, pressed and cured ducks and geese, the roast pork known as char siu, roast pig, and steamed fish. It is where stir-frying and steaming are high art, where dim sum, those small dumplings that “dot the heart,” originated. It is also the most varied of all of the cuisines of China, a consequence of many factors.

Canton is China’s richest growing area, a subtropical bowl that produces tons and tons of rice and vegetables and fruits including oranges, tangerines, pineapples, and coconuts. Its waters account for one quarter of the country’s total seafood catch and its offshore fish farms abound with prawns and grouper. Canton thus has had the raw materials with which to experiment, to change an existing cuisine. It is also the region which has been most open to Western influences—and even today is the heart of East-West trade—so that such concepts as roasting beef, currying lamb, even making ice cream, came early to Canton.

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