A nice bit of cheese

Ah, yes, the annual argument over where the cheese course should sit. Cheese is not just for Christmas – it is most definitely a year-round food. But today’s Stilton makers sell around 70% of their output at Christmas, and most cheesemongers offer dedicated Christmas cheese boards for those who just can’t choose.

Just as with the rest of the Christmas meal, cheese is (or should be) seasonal. Hard cheeses which require ageing, such as Stilton and its raw-milk cousin Stichelton (and Wensleydale, Cheddar and Lancashire) are at their best in the winter. Stilton was marketed from the start well beyond the region, sold largely through the Bell Inn in the village it was named after, and quickly gained a following among those travelling up or down the country. Cheeses which came in big, hard wheels were ideal for sending as gifts, especially when they were expensive, which made them ideal for Christmas.