About Lears and Caudles

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By Richard Sax

Published 1994

  • About
The American tradition of the “pour-through” pie, described in the recipe that follows, has old European roots. In the 17th and 18th centuries (and as early as the 14th), savory pies were moistened by a lear, a gravy-like mixture poured through an opening in the top crust of a pie or pastry with a funnel. Usually made with wine, meat gravy, vinegar, anchovies, oyster liquor and brown butter, the lear was added after baking, to moisten the filling.

For fruit and other sweet pies, a caudle—a mixture of wine, egg yolks and sugar thickened with butter kneaded with flour—was used. This one from The Whole Duty of a Woman (London, 1737) is typical: