Chicken Livers

Such useful things, so versatile, so delicious, and not subject to the same caveats that apply to chickens in general. They are worth a bit of extra attention. Quite often it’s better to buy chicken livers frozen as they will have invariably been put through the freezing process as soon as removed and consequently be that much fresher than ‘fresh’.

‘Trim the livers’ is a bit like those instructions ‘pass through a sieve’, ‘remove the chine bone’ or ‘clean the squid’ – a few questions are being begged. All livers – calf, lamb, pig, rabbit, duck – contain a network of veins and nerves which are best removed if the creamy texture of the liver is to be enjoyed properly. I find the best way to do this with chicken livers is to deal with one half at a time. First cut away any greenish bits on the surface and any small black blobs, which may be bits of gall. Press the centre of the liver down on a cutting board with the left hand and with the right hold a knife at 90° to the board. Using a back-and-forth sawing motion, pushing to the right, ease the liver away from the fibres, but not cutting through them. Then do the same with the other half. You will inevitably have some pulpy waste.