Crostini di Funghi

Wild mushrooms such as porcini or chanterelles will result in a wonderfully intense spread. If, however, all you can find at the market are cultivated white or brown mushrooms, the mixture will still be tasty if you increase the garlic and add a pinch of hot pepper. Another way to heighten the flavor is to add a few softened slices of dried porcini and their strained soaking liquid. Here are two versions of the mushroom spread, one made with besciamella, a classic cream sauce, and one made without, depending on whether the meal is meat or dairy.