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1. The Question of Continuity

Appears in
Delights from the Garden of Eden

By Nawal Nasrallah

Published 2019

  • About
Continuity of the ancient Iraqi culinary tradition into later ages can be seen most prominently in technique and presentation. They are best revealed in al-Warraq’s book due to his care in identifying sources and the very fact that his collection of recipes is so extensive in terms of variety and quantity, and because it is the earliest we have.

Regarding technique, the ancient Babylonian twenty-five stew recipes show a basic cooking method that combines meat and vegetables in a seasoned and enriched stew. Essentially the same type of stew became a staple dish in the Abbasid cuisine, as it is still today. The Akkadian word for broth or stew is ‘mu’/’me,’ literally, ‘water’. It is interesting to encounter similar terms in al-Warraq’s collection, such as meat dishes cooked in broth called ma’ wa milh, literally, ‘water and salt’. The ancient recipes also show that the taste for rendered sheep’s tail fat alya in medieval Arab cooking was shared by high and low. It has been deemed a delicacy in the entire Near Eastern region since ancient times.

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