The Vexed Subject of Rice

Any kid from Bangkok to Calcutta, from Saigon to Bombay can cook rice. But, we Brits have trouble even cooking the boilin-the-bag variety. Indeed, I know talented chefs who tremble at the thought of having to cook perfect rice and, when it comes to cooking dishes such as paella and biryani, I have seen pompous foodies cringe and tremble at the task. In the following dishes, the rice is thoroughly washed under running water until all the starch has gone before it is cooked.